Fashion month begins: New York opens the season with a Diane von Furstenberg debut and a new fur-free era

The most important stretch of the fashion calendar is about to begin, and it all starts in New York. Fashion month, the intense run of shows that shapes the industry for the season ahead, kicks off with New York Fashion Week. For designers, buyers and editors, it is the moment when the future of style is put on display. Anticipation is already building for what promises to be a defining season.

This edition of New York Fashion Week runs from September 10 to 15, 2026, presenting the Spring/Summer 2027 collections. According to the official schedule released by the CFDA, the American fashion trade body, the week features around 70 runway shows and designer presentations. Additional collections will be shown by appointment and digitally, expanding the reach of the event even further. It is a packed calendar that sets the tone for the entire month.

New York is only the first stop on a global journey. After the shows on the American East Coast wrap up, the fashion caravan moves across the Atlantic to Europe. There, Milan Fashion Week is scheduled to run from September 22 to 28, followed by Paris Fashion Week from September 28 to October 6. Together, these four cities form the backbone of the international fashion calendar.

A new era at Diane von Furstenberg

One of the most anticipated moments of the week comes right at the very start. New York Fashion Week opens on September 10 with the debut collection of Henry Zankov as the new artistic director of Diane von Furstenberg. His first show for the house is scheduled for 9:30 in the morning, setting the tone for the days to come. A CFDA member, Zankov is known for his considered knitwear and his sophisticated work with color.

The appointment marks a significant new chapter for a storied American label. Diane von Furstenberg is a house built on a singular garment, the iconic wrap dress, and a particular idea of the modern woman. Handing the creative reins to a designer like Zankov signals both respect for that heritage and a desire to move it forward. All eyes will be on how he reinterprets the brand's legacy for a new generation.

The opening day alone brings together a powerful lineup of American fashion. Alongside Diane von Furstenberg, major names such as Proenza Schouler, Tommy Hilfiger, Tory Burch and Christian Siriano are set to present their collections. The week then builds across several days of shows before reaching its finale. Fittingly, New York Fashion Week closes on September 15 with a presentation from Thom Browne, one of the most distinctive voices in American design.

New York Fashion Week runs September 10 to 15, 2026, with around 70 shows, opening with a Diane von Furstenberg debut.

A fur-free New York

Beyond the collections themselves, this season is notable for an important ethical shift. Following an announcement made in September 2025, the CFDA's fur-free policy now takes effect for all brands showing on the Official New York Fashion Week schedule. This means that, for the first time, animal fur is off the table across the official runways of the event. It is a landmark decision for one of the world's leading fashion capitals.

The move reflects a broader conversation that has been reshaping the industry for years. Questions of sustainability, animal welfare and evolving consumer values have pushed many brands and organizations to rethink their use of certain materials. By formalizing a fur-free stance, New York aligns itself with a growing shift in the fashion world. It also sends a clear message about the direction in which the industry is heading.

The trends to watch

As always, the season arrives with a set of emerging trends that commentators are watching closely. One of the most talked-about directions is a revival of sharp tailoring and minimalism, with luxury houses reimagining the suit. Observers point to the return of the skirt suit alongside playful details such as asymmetric hems, off-kilter buttons and unexpected proportions. It is a mood that balances elegance with a sense of quiet experimentation.

At the same time, a very different feeling is also making itself felt on the runways. Industry reports describe a wave of dark romance, a moodier and more gothic sensibility as the calendar edges toward the cooler months. This softer yet dramatic aesthetic, associated with houses known for their romantic edge, celebrates a free and expressive spirit. The contrast between clean minimalism and gothic romance promises a season rich in variety.

Whatever the runways ultimately reveal, fashion month remains the industry's most important barometer. The collections shown across New York, Milan and Paris will influence what appears in stores and on the street in the months to come. For fashion lovers, following these weeks is a way to glimpse the future of style before it arrives. As the lights go up on the first show in New York, the countdown to a new season has officially begun.